Get ready to roll up your sleeves and pull your hair back when you visit the Village Smokehouse in Brookline.

The decor is casual: red and white checked tablecloths, saddles and steer horns here and there. As the sign on the wall says, "Ain't nothin fancy, mind ya, just a place where good folks go."

The staff is friendly and efficient - quite an accomplishment considering how boisterous the restaurant can be at times (especially the bar, where servers shake margaritas, unruffled by patrons jockeying for seats and their attention).

The open-fire grill sizzles with giant racks of ribs, steaks, fajitas, burgers, and tender brisket. For appetizers, try the barbecued shrimp served over rice ($5.95) or the smoked sampler with two chicken wings, two shrimp, and beef brisket ($5.95). The stuffed jalepeno peppers are hot and pack a punch ($4.95), but there's plenty of tasty corn bread and Lone Star beer to douse the fire.

Pork baby back ribs are meaty and tender; you can choose between regular ($12.95) and Texas size ($14.95). Fajitas come in chicken, beef, shrimp, and Texas sausage ($11.95) and are large enough to share. Even the ubiquitous chicken breast sandwich is a cut above, moist and smoky, slathered with sauce, and topped with lettuce and tomato ($5.95).

The portions are huge, so plan on leaving with a doggie bag. And you'll be back for a fix of the delicious barbecue sauce. Even Miss Manners would be licking her fingers.